Chateau Latour 1996

WEINWISSER: "Recht dunkles Granatrot mit nur leicht aufhellenden Rändern. Im schier tiefgründigen Bouquet strahlt eine grosse Erhabenheit aus dem Glas. Ich denke beim Reinriechen: Das ist der Stoff, aus dem 20, respektive 100-Punkte-Weine gestrickt sind. Mein zweiter Gedanke: Wie kann man sowas Abgrundtiefes, fast Kühlwirkendes beschreiben? Mir kommen zwei Bilder: Erstens die berühmte Faust im Samthandschuh und zweitens ein gotisches Meisterwerk: Klar strukturiert, in die Höhe wachsend, erhaben aber auch etwas Kühles, Unnahbares. Herrliches Cabernet Sauvignon-Bouquet, viele edle Hölzer, dunkle bis blaue Beerenfrucht, Tabak, Liebstöckel sowie erdige und an blutiges Wildfleisch erinnernde Anklänge. Am Gaumen sehr fest und dicht gewoben, viel Grösse und Tiefe zeigend, samtiges Tannin, getragen von einer salzigen Ader und rassigen Fülle; noch immer jugendlich wirkend. Ich fragte den Sommelier nach der Dekantierzeit. Antwort: Am Vorabend wurden alle Weine doppelt dekantiert."

THE WINE ADVOCATE: "A hot, dry August produced very concentrated grapes in 1996. However, it turned a bit rainy in mid-September through early October, making the vintage less consistent on the Right Bank and in Graves. But as the weather turned glorious from early October on, it was an amazing year for later-harvested Cabernet in the Médoc. There was new ownership at Latour by this time, and a new vat room was completed just prior to the harvest this year. The 1996 Latour is medium to deep garnet in color with a profound earthy, meaty, gamey nose with hints of blueberry preserves, crème de cassis and pencil shavings. The palate is full-bodied, concentrated and packed with muscular fruit, with a firm, ripe, grainy backbone and epically long finish. Showing much more youthfully than the 2000 tasted on the same day and still possessing bags of youthful fruit in the mid-palate, this beauty is going to go on and on!"

DECANTER: "Inky black even at 25 years old. A hugely impressive wine, with plenty of chewy tannins still in play, ripples of cassis, bilberry and blackberry fruits, set against olive paste, charcoal and eucalyptus. Things have softened around the edges no question, this is still full of life with decades ahead of it, but this is a great moment to start enjoying its promise. Textbook Latour in many ways, for its austerity and power, and its serious character that is underlaid by concentrated pleasure showcasing 'the gift of sub-gravel clays'. 56% of overall production in the first wine. 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend. Last released in 2014 as an ex-château wine. Drinking Window 2023 - 2040"

THE WINE CELLAR INSIDER: "This keeps getting better and better. With a few more years, I would think it is going to get an upgraded score. And why not? The fruit displays a beautiful sense of purity, harmony, refinement, power, and elegance. The wine is incredibly concentrated, yet balanced, sweet, elegant and complex. Mouthcoating and seamless, there is still more to come with perhaps 4-5 years or more in the cellar."

FALSTAFF: "Kräftiges Rubingranat, violette Reflexe, dezente Randaufhellung. Schwarzbeerige Fruchtnuancen, etwas Lakritze und Edelholz, dezent nach Kräutern und reifen Kirschen. Am Gaumen elegant, zeigt gute Würze und feine Tannine, angenehme Extraktsüße und ein anhaltendes tabakiges Finale, dezente rotbeerige Anklänge im Rückgeschmack, sehr gute Länge. Ein Latour, der immer besser auf Touren kommt, ohne sich mit der Komplexität der ganz großen Jahre messen zu müssen. Tolle Flasche."

WINE SPECTATOR: "Fabulous aromas of crushed raspberries, plums and blackberries. Mind-blowing nose. Full-bodied, with soft and silky tannins and a long caressing finish. Hard not to drink now, but leave it alone.--'95/'96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2010. 17,000 cases made."

JANCIS ROBINSON: "Beautifully ornate nose with equal parts stalk, leaf, herb and black fruit. Freshly balanced palate with delicacy and refreshment, and surprising elegance for Pauillac from a big vintage. Wonderful complexity on the finish, earthy and open and meaty on the length."