Chateau Margaux 2009

WEINWISSER: "Was macht einen ganz grossen Margaux aus? Es sind die Maulbeeren, die sich im Bouquet meist mit Himbeeren und etwas Cassis vermischen. Von allem hat es im 2009er mehr als reichlich. Mit einer nussigen Note beginnt das Süss- und Edelholzspiel, dann folgen Spuren von Backpflaumen, Kakaobohnen und der Duft von frisch geröstetem Kaffee – und die beiden Cabernets sind königlich erhaben, ohne Imponiergehabe. Am Gaumen viel Süsse von top reifen Beeren, etwas Honig, helles Malz und ganz feine, zarte Karamellspuren, die über dem Extrakt dahinschmelzen. Die Adstringenz ist reich, das stützende Tannin aber schon fast harmonisch in den massiven Körper integriert. Und doch ist dieser Margaux kein Frühcharmeur, der möglichst schnell zu gefallen wissen möchte, denn der Verdauungsprozess der üppigen Gerbstoffe dürfte mal mindestens 10 Jahre anhalten – was diese Margaux-Legende zu einem Weinereignis für Generationen macht. Stilistisch ist der 09er eine Art Blend zwischen 1990 (nur konzentrierter) und 1983 (nur fetter)."

DECANTER: "If you want to drink a Margaux 2009 any time soon, you need to go for the Pavillon - the grand vin is still extremely young, holding back its power and impact for another five or 10 years time. It's still closed up enough to hint rather than reveal. The smooth, silky tannins are joined by blackberry and cassis fruit with a great sense of vibrancy and concentration, and some tingling minerality with a pulse of electricity. There's a latent generosity here, a slow confidence that builds through the palate as the flavours layer up, yet it's clear that there's still lots to be revealed, particularly the hints of violet and peony florality that just peek through on the finish. This is very, very good - up with the best ever from this estate. 31% of production went into this wine, and it has the same amount of Cabernet Sauvignon as in 2005. 2% Petit Verdot completes the blend."

THE WINE CELLAR INSIDER: "If you are wondering what heaven in a glass feel, smells and tastes like, look no further. This is everything a great wine needs. The texture is pure silk and velvet. And speaking of purity, the fruit delivers that in spades. The sensual texture really brings everything together. If you have a bottle and can wait another decade, as good as this is today, it will be even better!"

JAMES SUCKLING: "This marathon runner is currently in the no-man's land between youthful vitality and mellow maturity. There's a very serious tannin structure here, but it needs a lot longer to fully resolve. Very tight and closed. A perfect wine usually. But not today. Try in 2020."

THE WINE ADVOCATE: "The 2009 Château Margaux is deep garnet in color and features wonderfully fragrant minted cassis, lilacs, Black Forest cake and oolong tea scents with touches of pencil shavings and dusty soil. Medium to full-bodied, it has a firm, grainy frame with lovely freshness lifting the perfumed fruit to a very long, mineral-laced finish."

FALSTAFF: "Dunkles Rubingranat, violette Reflexe, zarte Randaufhellung. Feine Röstaromen, ein Hauch Nougat, reife Herzkirschen, feine Nuancen von Lakritze und Kardamom, schwarze Kirschen sind unterlegt, facettenreiches, mineralisch geprägtes Bukett. Komplex, dunkle Beerenfrucht, extraktsüß, straffe, gut integrierte Tannine, frisch und salzig im Abgang, verfügt über enorme Länge, aber auch große Eleganz, ist so konzentriert wie 2005, aber dank seiner tollen, seidigen Tannine wesentlich zugänglicher. Kann bereits angetrunken werden."

JANCIS ROBINSON: "Tasted blind. Dark lustrous crimson. Spicy note and very ripe fruit with some leafiness. Thick and sweet – very rich and fat. Very dramatic. Group average placed this second favourite of the 2009s."

WINE ENTHUSIAST: "A massive wine for Margaux, packed with tannins and ripe fruit. It has more Cabernet Sauvignon than usual, giving intense black currant flavors with enticing acidity balanced by the sweetness of the fruit. Ripe swathes of this opulent fruit are also elegant and structured."

WINE SPECTATOR: "This offers gorgeously caressing fruit, with steeped plum, blackberry and red currant notes, finely embroidered with accents of rooibos and black tea, tobacco leaf, alder and sandalwood. Delivers loads of fruit, with the structure already melded into the core of fruit--but that's the vintage style. A stunner, though I still find the '10 a full step ahead.--Non-blind Château Margaux vertical (December 2013). Best from 2018 through 2035. — JM"