Chateau Montrose 1990

THE WINE ADVOCATE: "Tasted at the Montrose vertical in London, the 1990 Montrose is a blend of 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc (almost identical to the 1989 Montrose) and picked between 14 September and 3 October. It has a formidable reputation and for years it overshadowed the 1989. That said, it is well known that there are incidences of brettanomyces that compromise some bottles and the one bottle in London showed just a tincture of this. It still merited a score of 97/100, though it only served to highlight the ethereal delineation of the 1989. Then literally a couple of days later. I was served blind a magnum of the 1990 Montrose in Cape Town, which had been purchased on release and stored in perfect conditions. Now, here was the real deal, unfettered by any infection, a regal Saint Estèphe. It shows approximately the same evolution as the 1989 in bottle, but unsurprisingly showed less bricking in magnum format. The bouquet is cut from a different cloth to the 1989 and attests to that warm vintage: hickory, clove, undergrowth and wild fennel, later garrigue-like scents and terracotta, the latter two more pronounced on the bottle format compared to the youthful magnum. The palate is full-bodied and powerful, yet the balance is perfect, a ballerina-like poise with the structure of the Forth Bridge. It is a multi-layered Montrose that offers enormous length, fresh and vibrant with the magnum demonstrating tangible mineralite and tension as it fans out on the crescendo of a finish—a fanfare for Saint Estèphe in all its glory. Improving all the time in the glass, this example of 1990 Montrose is a privilege to behold. One can speculate whether larger formats are a "safer bet" in terms of experiencing this behemoth without any brettanomyces. Perhaps. However, if you do come across the 1990 Montrose like this, you are in the presence of a king."

WEINWISSER: "Schwarze Farbe, auch am Rand immer noch sehr dicht und erste ziegelrote Reifetöne. Gewaltiges, barockes Bouquet, aus der Tiefe Trüffel, Teer, Rauch, Korinthen und gebrauchtes Leder, wilde Cabernetnoten, trocken und doch gewaltig komplex. Im Gaumen männliches, charaktervolles Profil, Kraft vermischt mit Arroganz und Erhabenheit, sich überschlagende Aromatik, bis zum Schluss im schwarzbeerigen Bereich bleibend. Ein Tenor unter den grössten Médocs und in der aktuellen Verfassung fast schon ein Cabernet-Überwein."

FALSTAFF: "Dunkles Rubingranat, zarter Ockerrand, dezente Randaufhellung. Noten von Tabak und Brombeeren, zart nach Lakritze, mineralischer sowie rauchiger Touch. Samtig und schokoladig, mit Luft deutlich weniger animalisch, schwarzbeerig, reife Tannine, lange anhaftend, Nougattouch auch im Abgang, einfach toll, mineralisch und sehr überzeugend."

THE WINE CELLAR INSIDER: "A nice clean bottle, with a developed personality of cedar, Asian spice, tobacco leaf, cigar wrapper, cherry cassis and herbs. Full-bodied, dense and powerful, the wine is long, complex and mouth-filling. This is probably quite close to the sweet spot for this gem, where is should remain for at least another 20-25 years with ease."

LISA PERROTTI-BROWN: "Deep brick in color, the 1990 Montrose erupts from the glass with a powerful nose of prunes, creme de cassis, and tar, followed by gentle wafts of crushed rocks, sweaty leather, iodine, truffles, and iron ore. The medium-bodied palate, plush, multi-layered, and elegantly styled, delivers compelling freshness and a long ferrous finish. The Montrose 1990 is infamous for bottle variation, with some bottles being badly affected by Brettanomyces. I've had severely Bretty bottles twice and once I had a pristine bottle, which was simply magic. This bottle, which came directly from the Château, had a mild dose of Brett, which didn't bother me and about half of the other tasters in the room, but there were some who detest Brett and didn't enjoy it. I tasted the 1990 again at the Château a few months later and the experience was similar. If you really don't like that sweaty saddles/iodine character instilled by Brett, this wine may not be your cup of tea. The blend for this year is 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc."

JANCIS ROBINSON: "Served blind initially. Sweet and spicy. Very Cabernet on the nose and then gamey sweet. It's very upfront with richness and even cinnamon. Tastes of dark purple fruits. Sweet and flattering but I don't think it will improve."

WINE SPECTATOR: "Dark in color with decadent aromas of ripe fruit, earth and amazing mint and spearmint undertones, yet there's also an underlying meaty funkiness. Full-bodied, with layers of very ripe fruit and velvety tannins. Massive and caressing. A big, powerful wine. Like velvet.--Non-blind Château Montrose vertical. Drink now. 18,000 cases made."