Chateau Margaux 1990

THE WINE ADVOCATE: "The 1990 Château Margaux is really beginning to hit its stride at age 31, soaring from the glass with aromas of blackberries and cassis mingled with notions of licorice, cedar and violets, framed by subtle hints of vanilla and spice. Full-bodied, deep and multidimensional, it's seamless and complete, its velvety tannins and ripe acids entirely cloaked in a lavish but vibrant core of fruit. This is an especially dramatic, fleshy rendition of Margaux, yet it remains impeccably balanced and has decades of longevity ahead of it."

FALSTAFF: "Dunkles Rubingranat, violette Reflexe, zarter Wasserrand. Sehr einladendes Bukett nach schwarzen Kirschen, ein Hauch von Karamell und feinen Röstaromen, dazu feines Cassis und kandierte Veilchen, magischer Duft. Saftig, salzig, finessenreich strukturiert, geprägt von toller Extraktsüße, perfekt eingebundenen Tanninen, schokoladigen Nuancen, weißem Pfeffer. Enormes Potenzial."

THE WINE CELLAR INSIDER: "Full-bodied, rich, opulent, elegant, vibrant and concentrated, the wine kicks off with violets, tobacco leaf, wet earth, currants, blackberries, forest leaf and a touch of spice. If that wasn't enough to seal the deal, the velvet-textured, multiple layers of silky-textured fruits that stick with you will own your palate. This is one of those stunning wines that sticks with you long after the night is over."

WEINWISSER: "Leuchtendes Rubin, nur wenig Reifeschimmer, ziemlich aufhellend am Rand. Wachsiges Bouquet, dezent laktisch, ein Hauch Margarine, rotbeerige Frucht, von der Süsse her auch eine geléeartige Komponente zeigend, Hagebutten und ein Hauch Kamille, Honignoten von überreifem Merlot, ausladend und mit wohlig strömender Nase. Im Gaumen saftig oder gar seidig, wirkt schlank, aber die Länge ist dafür genial und auch fast tänzerisch, eine gewisse Fragilität ist auch schon da, im Innern zeigt er viel Margaux-Parfüm. Hat wahrlich etwas Burgundisches und strotzt nur so von Finessen. Seit Langem eine der allerbesten Flaschen. Trinken, träumen, taumeln."

WINE SPECTATOR: "A stunner, with a glorious aromatic display of mulled plum, blackberry and cherry notes seamlessly melded with rooibos tea, singed balsa wood and ground vanilla bean accents. The structure is so fine-grained that it´s almost hard to find, but the marathonesque length shows it´s there. As gorgeous as it is, this remains a hair behind the modern greats in terms of concentration. Still, it should hold at this peak for some time. Awfully close to the ´89, but sometimes we have to split hairs.--Non-blind Château Margaux vertical (December 2013). Drink now through 2025. 25,000 cases made."

JANCIS ROBINSON: "Very deep flavoured and concentrated with a hint of yeast extract (Marmite). Bold, dark and savoury with some sweetness although the sweet aspects of this wine were not emphasised by the fact that it was served immediately after a Rousseau Clos St-Jacques 1999. Not a wine to turn down."