Dominio de Pingus - Pingus 2025

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• 96-100/100

  The Wine Advocate
  I had the extreme privilege to taste all the single components of the 2025 Pingus and also the blend he decided on, though it's still not blended; the plots will be blended in the next racking before the summer, then the wine should be bottled in April to June 2027. There are six vinifications from the 4.2 hectares that make up the Pingus vineyards. Only the plot they call San Cristobal, which is close to San Cristóbal but really still in the lieu-dit of Barroso, is higher and separate; the soil is different, but the plant material is similar to the rest, planted in the 1920s. This gives the wine its tannic structure. For the first time, it fermented with temperature control in small 2,000-liter oak vats-the temperature went up a little in 2024, so he decided to implement the temperature control for 2025. And for Peter Sisseck, it made a big difference. The second one to be harvested, Barroso 1, seems to be the one that gives finesse to the blend. It is the largest plot he bought, and together with the San Cristobal, he used it for the first vintage in 1995. The other plots were added later. Barroso 3, the north face, is a different plant selection from the previous two. It has been used in the Pingus blend since 1998 (perhaps 1997), and it gives something complex, with power and complexity. What he call Barroso 2, which is really called El Llano de Barroso, is a little concave, and it also has a different selection of Tempranillo. Sometimes it can have more rustic tannins, so sometimes it's not included in the final blend. The Barroso 4 is yet a different massal selection from the rest, perhaps planted a little later. It's a plot that Peter said has talent, and he likes it this year's fruit a lot. This plot also adds a lot of finesse and very fine-grained tannins in the wine. Another part, closer to La Horra from Barroso 1, has more clay but with sand and boulders on top. Curiously enough, it ripens a little later, so it was harvested later. And it also usually has a bigger yield, which delays the harvest even more. So, Pingus, in addition to being a winery, is also a blending exercise that gives Peter Sisseck more tools and the possibility to fine-tune the wine according to the vintage. The 2025 Pingus has power but also finesse. Part of this lot was put in an 850-liter Clayver ceramic sphere, to see what the wine would be like without the effect of the wood. This component, which could be considered the seventh one, evolves at a slower pace, and the tannins are a little powdery. For Peter Sisseck, 2025 was a superb vintage for Pingus. The temperature control-or the possibility to have it-made a difference in the different vinifications (all six lots fermented in oak vats: five 2,000-liter open-top ones and one 2,500-liter closed one, all with indigenous yeasts and with some selected full bunches in San Cristóbal and Barroso 1, perhaps Barroso 4). In 2025, they started harvesting on 4 September, one month earlier than in the first vintage in 1995, when they harvested on 3 October. Both years have 13.8% alcohol, but 2025 had higher yields than in 1995. So, one month earlier and he has the same alcohol as in 1995! 1995 was harvested in two days and 2025 was harvested in eight to nine days. We tasted the hypothetical 2025 blend, all the San Cristobal, most of Barroso 3, most of Barroso 4 and the Barroso 1 La Horra also. It has the volume from 2024 with the lightness and aromatics of the 2023; Sisseck compared it to 2018 or 2021, Despite the abundant rain, they didn't have any mildew. They got good but not huge yields, and the blend has terrific balance and super fine tannins, finer than any of the components. It is primary and young but shows nuance and detail, notes of orange peel and flowers, wild berries and herbs. Focused, clean and pretty but with power and clout, it's a superb Pingus in the making. The blend is better than the separate parts!! As they are harvesting almost one month earlier now, he believes the wines should also be bottled a little earlier. This looks like a potentially superb Pingus, but it all depends on many things. They expect some 7,500 bottles to be filled around May 2027."