Dugat Py - Gevrey Chambertin Les Fonteny 1er Cru Vieilles Vignes 2017

DECANTER: "Fonteny faces east like its neighbour Les Ruchottes, on a site with very little topsoil. There's only one barrel of this superb wine, fermented with two-thirds whole bunches and sourced from a 70-year-old parcel, but what a red it is. It combines weight, freshness, blueberry and black cherry fruit, silky tannins and palate-cleansing freshness."

THE WINE ADVOCATE: "The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Fonteny exhibits a brooding bouquet of smoky blackberries, dark chocolate, grilled meats and coniferous forest floor. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, velvety and enveloping, with terrific concentration and structural refinement, displaying more mid-palate amplitude than the Petite Chapelle but similarly striking energy and definition. This is another 2017 that has fully realized all the promise it showed from barrel."

BURGHOUND: "A slightly riper yet still quite cool and ultra-floral nose of plum, dark currant and earth precedes the intense, detailed and slightly bigger and richer medium-bodied flavors that deliver fine length on the mildly austere and dusty finale. As it often is at this stage, this impressively chiseled and stony effort is very compact and will need extended clearing to unwind."