Bonneau du Martray - Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2015

James Suckling: "My birthday celebration night in Hong Kong moved on from Moët & Chandon and Dom Pérignon 2000 to a 2005 Bonneau de Martray Corton-Charlemange, which is an old favorite of mine for great white Burgundy. I often say that great Corton-Charlemagne is a red wine masquerading as a white wine because it can be so structured and textured. This 2005 was certainly like that. Some say that Bonneau de Martray went down in quality in the 1990s but then came back in the 2000s. The 2005 that we drank was excellent quality. It was a tightly structured white with sliced apples, lemon meringue and an exquisite cream character. It was full body and silky-textured, showing a dense and beautiful palate. It still needs at least two or three years to open and show its true quality."

The Wine Advocate: "youthful nose of citrus zest, white flowers, tart pineapple and struck flint, framed by some spicy new oak. On the palate, this full-bodied wine reveals tension and definition that it seemed to miss in barrel, its glossy attack now backed by a nicely chalky structure and a deep, properly reserved core. This will need some time in the bottle to integrate, but its evolution is very promising, and while this is unusually rich and concentrated those qualities don't come at the expense of terroir."

Burghound: "There is a discreet tropicality to the super-fresh nose of pear, apple, petrol and viognier-like aromas. The exceptionally rich, concentrated and intense medium weight plus flavors possess a lovely sense of vibrancy that continues onto the dry and even slightly austere finale. While not exactly classic in style, this beautifully textured effort is less 2015 in character than one might expect."