Chateau Calon Segur 2019

THE WINE CELLAR INSIDER: "Power, purity, complexity, and richness combine to produce stunning levels of intensity, length, and freshness. The depth of fruit here is almost off the charts. Almost opaque in color, the wine is all about its display of spices, blackberries, black plums, black currants, mint, espresso, and tobacco leaf character. Perfectly balanced, poised, and rich, the tannins are polished and refined, making this beauty effortless to drink. This is a very textural wine that is clearly one of the stars of the vintage. Drink from 2030-2060."

WEINWISSER: "Undurchsichtiges Purpur mit schwarzer Mitte. Was für ein betörendes Parfüm: frisch gepflückte Brombeeren, Alpenheidelbeeren und edle Cassiswürze. Im zweiten Ansatz Lakritze und heller Tabak. Am eleganten Gaumen mit seidiger Textur und herrlicher Extraktsüsse, dann packt der Gigant mit engmaschigem Tanningerüst und perfekt stützender Rasse zu. Im aromatischen, langanhaltenden Finale ein Feuerwerk mit Nougatpralinen, schwarzen Johannisbeeren und exotischen Hölzern. Der Höhenflug geht unbeirrt weiter, die Allokationen bleiben klein – daher sehr gesucht!"

DECANTER: "This is a brilliant Calon Ségur, absolutely one to search out. Dripping with lush brambled fruit, from ripe damsons to sleek blackberries and touches of hedgerow that add an unforced juiciness through what is a powerful and concentrated wine. The tannins are chewy and very much present, and this has great ageing potential ahead of it. 3.8pH. A yield of 40hl/ha. 100% new oak. 1% Petit Verdot completes the blend."

JEB DUNNUCK: "As to the Grand Vin, the 2019 Château Calon Ségur checks in as 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot, brought up in new barrels. This full-bodied, spicy, complex, decadent beauty has building, polished tannins, terrific overall balance, and incredible aromatics of spiced red and black currants, lead pencil, cedary herbs, smoked tobacco, and flowery incense. Complex, ripe, and even sexy, it will need just 4-6 years to hit the early stages of its drink window and is going to cruise for 30 years if properly stored. It's another brilliant wine from this estate."

FALSTAFF: "Dunkles Rubingranat, opaker Kern, violette Reflexe, zarte Randaufhellung. Schwarze Beeren, ein Hauch von Bergamotte und Darjeelingtee, Blaubeeren und Zedernholz, exotisches Bukett. Kraftvoll, saftig und süß, schokoladige Nuancen, feste, tragende Tannine, würzig im Abgang, besitzt große Würze und Länge, geprägt vom Holzeinsatz, der über die fehlende Dichte hinweghilft, fast pfeffrige Nuancen im Nachhall, reife Herzkirschen im Rückgeschmack, Potenzial für viele Jahre."

JAMES SUCKLING: "Sweet cherries and berries with some walnuts and dried flowers, as well as notes of crushed stone, pine, currants and violets. Full-bodied and building gradually on the palate, with intense, polished tannins that are layered throughout the wine, providing well-toned muscle. The finish lasts for minutes. Quintessential Calon. Needs time to soften. Try after 2027."

WINE ENTHUSIAST: "Dark, firm with great intensity and rich fruits, this is a powerful wine. Its richness is opened up by the succulent acidity and fine freshness coming from the fruit. Together, the elements work well, power and fruit in harmony. Drink the wine from 2027."

WINE SPECTATOR: Really packed, with dark currant, warmed fig compote and steeped blackberry notes tumbling together, harnessed by a bolt of cast iron. Delivers singed cedar, bay leaf and tobacco accents as well as a late tug of warm earth in the background, ending with a throwback feel. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2024 through 2040.

JANCIS ROBINSON: "Deep, dark and dense with a whiff of liquorice and menthol. Takes off on the palate with real verticality (‘an autoroute’ says winemaker Vincent Millet). Perhaps a hint of chocolate added to the dark fruit. Big tannic frame but enrobed in generous fruit so practically gourmand. Huge persistence. Again, one for the cellar."

THE WINE ADVOCATE: "Vincent Millet (who can boast a doctorate in wine microbiology and who took up his post as Calon's technical director after a stint at Château Margaux) is doing everything right in terms of restructuring the estate's somewhat neglected vineyards with massal selections, higher density plantings, cover crops and precision viticulture. He's also cleaned up and modernized the winery. The 2019 Calon-Ségur shows the impact of some of those changes already, offering up a rich bouquet of crème de cassis, licorice, warm spices and subtle hints of cigar box, followed by a full-bodied, broad and fleshy palate that's deep and concentrated, with lively acids and beautifully refined tannins. All this is very impressive, but the fly in the ointment is an alcohol level that flirts with 15% and makes itself felt on the warm, liqueured finish. Balance isn't a matter of mere numbers, of course, but despite its admirable qualities and the serious work behind it, I do have reservations about this wine's ultimate equilibrium. Time will tell. The good news is that Millet is actively exploring viticultural strategies to mitigate high alcohol levels."