Chateau La Mission Haut Brion 1989

The Wine Advocate: "Both La Mission-Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion hit home runs in this vintage, which did not produce as many profound wines as the Bordeaux publicity machine suggested. 1989, the 200th anniversary of the French revolution, was an incredibly hot year (surpassed only by 1990 and 2003). Even from barrel the seamless 1989 La Mission revealed a special elixir aspect, tasting like it had been designed by Chanel. It still possesses a blue/purple color with only a hint of garnet creeping in, and the explosive aromatics offer up notes of licorice, creme de cassis, blueberry liqueur, smoky barbecue meats, truffles and graphite. If that’s not enough to get one salivating, the palate has never disappointed either. Full-bodied with extraordinary opulence as well as sweet, well-integrated, velvety tannins, this fresh, lively, blockbuster La Mission appears to be one of those rare wines that never goes through a closed, unfriendly stage. It has been a compelling, multidimensional effort from barrel, in its infancy, and as it heads into late adolescence. A remarkable tour de force in winemaking, it is one of the all-time profound La Mission-Haut-Brions. Anticipated maturity: now-2050."

Weinwisser: "Mitteldunkles Granat, noch zart violetter Schimmer, immer noch jung, aber heller als bei früheren Proben. Die Nase hat viele Anklänge von früheren, ganz grossen Missions, aber einfach in noch viel jüngerer Form, viel Lakritze, feine Rauchnuancen und Cassispräsenz, dunkle Edelhölzer und Caramel. Der Ansatz ist recht wuchtig, auch wenn man das Gefühl hat, da kommt laufend noch mehr. Im Gaumen dicht, fleischig, megakonzentriert, die Tannine zeigen erste Rundungen und der Rest des Gaumens bringt eine dramatische, ausgeglichene Adstringenz. Auf jeden Fall ein fragloser Jahrhundertwein. Er ist am Anfang einer extrem langen, mindestens 40 Jahre andauernden Genussreife. 20/20 beginnen"

Falstaff: "Mittleres Karmingranat, Ockerreflexe, breitere Randaufhellung. Zunächst rauchige Nuancen, ein Hauch von Velours und Spuren von Jod, mit erdig-tabakigen Noten sowie mit Anklängen von Brombeeren und ­Heidelbeeren unterlegt. Saftig und kraftvoll. Süße Tannine, Anklänge von Orangen und etwas Nougat, frisch strukturiert, etwas Cassis im Nachhall, ein echter Charakterkopf, ­schokoladiger Nachhall."

The Wine Cellar Insider: "As good as 89 Haut Brion, or, depending on the day, it can be even better. The verdict with the group was split between the two. Still deeply colored, the wine explodes with dark red berries, charcoal, burning fireplace logs, campfire, cigar box, tobacco leaf, ash and tar scents. Full-bodied, powerful and mouth-filling, the wine starts off strong, and keeps on going, seemingly never quitting. Long, expansive, intense and seamless, this is what great wine is all about. it could age even longer than Haut Brion if well-stored!"

Wine Spectator: "What a nose of pressed flowers and full-throttle dried fruits. Full-bodied, with intense and very ripe fruit that has undertones of dried fruit, raisin and grilled meat. Chewy and decadent, almost rustic, offering so much richness and decadence. So much to give still, but why wait?--´89/´99 Bordeaux blind retrospective (2009). Drink now. –JS"

Jancis Robinson: "Lively and rich. Dense blackcurrant and savoury. Much livelier than the 1990. Mainly Cabernet Sauvignon. Fresh and sinewy."