Penfolds - Grange 1989

Jane Anson: "You might expect a vintage of this age to look more evolved than this, particularly one that is not recognised as a great Grange vintage, and yet it is vibrant and ready for action. 1989 was a very hot year, fully ripe, and it retains an edge of rubber and smoke reduction on the opening notes, needs a good carafe to really open up (which is different from having to carafe for sediment). Once it does, you get straight to cigar box, cinders, soot, blueberries, blackcurrant, raspberry puree, still stunning, with the spice of a hot year. Changed from Grange Hermitage in this year (in the following 1990 vintage, the cork says Grange Hermitage, while the label just says Grange). Peter Gago arrived in this vintage, at a time when the team was still working in a traditional manner, with a continous press used for extraction - a rougher method than today, and yet this is still firing on all cylinders, and is just a fabulous wine."

Vinum: "Der letzte Jahrgang, der den Namenszusatz «Hermitage» trägt. Duftet nach Waldboden, schwarzem Pfeffer, Zimt, Vadouvan und gelbem Currypulver. Im Mund zeigen sich Lakritz und Süssholz, auch Anklänge von dunkler Frucht finden sich, dann kommt wieder diese faszinierende Würze und fili­grane Leichtigkeit. Ein Wein voller Frische und Transparenz."

Jancis Robinson: "Blackish crimson. Comfortable, toasty nose. Rich and sumptuous. Really very glorious and rich and deep-flavoured, with heady layers. Not unlike a bordeaux 1989. Complete."

Lisa Perrotti-Brown: "he 1989 Penfolds Grange included 9% of Cabernet Sauvignon and it has a medium brick color. Wow – it set off a fantastic firework display of dried roses, Chinese five spices, crushed rocks, and cigar boxes, giving way to a core of dried cherries and plum pudding, with a waft of rusty nails. The medium-bodied palate is so vibrant and refreshing, with a silky texture and loads of mineral and earthy flavors continuing into the long finish."

Wine Spectator: " Amazingly ripe and lush, this bubbles with vibrant fruit like a mouthful of cassis syrup, concentrated, elegant and remarkably silky in texture. Blackberry, currant and vanilla flavors ooze over palate, making for a thoroughly hedonistic drink. Wonderful now or wait until it calms down, perhaps by 2003 or 2005.--Penfolds Grange vertical. 8,000 cases made."

Weinwisser: "Purpurrot mit aufhellendem Rand. Leicht oxidatives Nasenbild mit fast schon überreifen Noten von roter Johannisbeere, dazu Lakritz und getrocknete Pflaumen, ein paar Teeblätter sowie eine Spur Eukalyptus und Minze runden das Bouquet ab. Im Gaumen bei aller Konzentration fokussiert, wieder rote und schwarze Johannisbeeren, ein durchtrainierter Grange mit festem Tannin und erstaunlicher Frische. Nicht ganz so in Form wie zuletzt bei anderen Gelegenheiten verkostete Flaschen, deren Qualitäten nahe der Idealnote waren."

The Wine Advocate: "A very hedonistic, almost decadent style of Grange, this blend of 91% Shiraz and 9% Cabernet Sauvignon from three grape sources - Kalimna in the Barossa, Penfolds' other sources in the Barossa, and McLaren Vale - is a gorgeously opulent, almost Pomerol-like Grange with an over-ripe characteristic to the fruit. Cherry liqueur intermixed with cranberry and cassis presented in a seductive, full-bodied, very soft, forward style is truly not the classic Grange in the sense of having huge structure and massive concentration, but this wine is loaded, very corpulent, and fleshy. The wine is going to last for up to two decades, but it will be uncommonly succulent and delicious to drink young, as it was several months ago. Among the young vintages of Grange, this is perhaps the most flattering wine that they have produced over the last 20 years, at least for such a relatively young wine. Anticipated maturity: now-2018."

Falstaff: "Kräftiges Rubingranat, gesunde Farbe, floral, Veilchen und schwarze Oliven, gegen alle Erwartungen eine ganz junge Nase. Saftig, süß und sehr ausgewogen, frische Brombeeren und Kirschen, schokoladig und anhaltend, eine große, positive Überraschung, hat Länge und Kraft. Hat in dieser Verfassung große Zukunft."

James Suckling: " warm year has resulted in a typically full-weighted wine, albeit, one that is now at, or even past its apex of maturity. Avuncular aromas of cinder-box, tamarind, clove and varnished leather, with a wisp of menthol and muscle rub. A core of sweet curranty fruit lingers. There is plenty of charm here and with that, imminent appeal for those picking up a bottle in the secondary market. Drink now."