Chateau Canon 1998

THE WINE ADVOCATE: "Strange how this wine was never appealing out of barrel, but in bottle it has been a true joy. Here at 15-years young, it has a lovely vibrant nose that is surfeit with mineralite and hints of freshly shucked oyster shells. The palate is very well balanced with a satin-like texture, yet there is an engaging linearity and focus towards the finish, plus a very strong grip suggesting this will be a long-term Canon. Tasted December 2012."

JAMES SUCKLING: "This is really beautiful now, with subtle blackberries, cherries and minerals that follow through to a silky texture, underlying the fine tannin structure. This wine continues to improve in quality with years of bottle age. Underlines the beautiful quality of this vintage on the right bank of the Gironde. Drink or hold."

DECANTER: "This vintage is two years in to ownership by Chanel. John Kolasa was the estate's director. The vines are at a lower density in 1998 compared to 1989, at 5,600 vines/ha. The precision of today's viticulture was clearly underway here, with double sorting of the grapes. There was some rain in September, so they began harvest (which ran from 26 September to 9 October) late in the morning to avoid dew. Well constructed and carefully placed, this shows more Canon character of today than the 1989, but is still not at the heights reached in more recent vintages. There's a lilting freshness, with carefully drawn strands of silky tannin, gentle raspberry and cassis fruit, and notes of soft liquorice and crushed leaf on the finish. 70% new oak."

WINE SPECTATOR: "Both lush and mature, with lovely black tea and mulled spice notes mixed with warm fruitcake and raspberry and blackberry confiture flavors. Stays fleshy through the finish, with singed spice swirling around. A touch exotic, but stays harnessed through the finish.—Non-blind Canon vertical (December 2016). Drink now through 2025. 7,500 cases made. — JM!"

THE WINE CELLAR INSIDER: "Medium bodied, fresh, bright and vibrant, with a nose packed with flowers, sweet cherries, plum, earth and thyme, silky tannins and a fruit filled finish that leaves with ample, ripe, black raspberries and cherries."