Chateau Haut Brion 1988

ANTONIO GALLONI: "The 1988 Haut Brion is another vintage that I have not seen for a number of years. It has a light, maybe slight smudged nose that is quite leafy in style, autumnal, hints of bay leaf and a light marine influence developing but never quite delivering the vigor of its sibling, the 1988 La Mission Haut-Brion. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannin on the entry, a fine thread of acidity, but I would argue this is too simple for a First Growth in a decent vintage like this, does not engage or charm like the 1985 or 1986. Of course, matter would be redressed by the legendary 1989 Haut-Brion. The 1988? It is more like a footnote to Jean-Bernard Delmas’s crowning glory that arrived 12 months later. Tasted at the château."

THE WINE ADVOCATE: "A more firmly structured Haut-Brion, built somewhat along the lines of the 1996, this dark garnet-colored wine is showing notes of licorice, underbrush, compost, truffles, dried herbs, creosote, and sweet black cherries and currants. Medium-bodied, rich, but still structured, this wine unfolds incrementally on the palate, showing superb density and a lot of complex Graves elements. It is just beginning to hit its plateau of full maturity. Anticipated maturity: Now-2025. Last tasted, 11/02."

THE WINE CELLAR INSIDER: "This is a Bordeaux for Burgundy drinkers. It is all about the fabulous nose. The wine wants to get where it needs to be, but there is a strictness to its personality and some dryness in the tannins that take over on the palate. 3 hours of decanting did not help. This is perfect for tasters bemoaning the classic taste of Bordeaux, but it really was not a lot of fun to taste."

WEINWISSER: "Feinwürzige Nase, erdig, mit viel Kaffee- und Tabakaromen, Zigarrenkiste. Am Gaumen recht dunkel und kühl in der Aromatik; mit sehr guten Tanninen und einer perfekten Struktur gesegnet, kein Leichtgewicht, aber auch niemand für die Schwergewichtsklasse; ein grossgewachsener Gentleman – mit Schirm, Charme und Melone. Viel Understatement, mit kühler Brise, gleichzeitig wunderbar gereift. Für die volle Entwicklung seiner polierten Oberfläche braucht er Luft, baut dann im Glas wunderbar aus, um im langen Abgang mit grosser Geste abzutreten. Wird lange leben."

WINESPECTATOR: "What a beautiful and complete wine, with dark chocolate, crushed blackberry, cedar and raspberry on the nose. Full-bodied, with supersilky tannins and a beautiful licorice, tar and fruit aftertaste. Long and complex. Will improve with age, but delicious now."