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Cheval Blanc Dependance - 100 Punkte
Weinvorhersage vom 24. März 2022

Cheval Blanc Dependance - 100 Punkte

Wir sind zur Verkostung des Jahrganges 2020 in Bordeaux. 27.04.2021, Mittagessen mit Nicolas Audebert, mittlerweile Überflieger auf Chateau Canon, nahezu 20 Jahre zuvor jedoch war er Regisseur der LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessy) Dependance CHEVAL DES ANDES in Argentinien. Einen Wein, den er uns blind serviert, erkennen wir umgehend und professionell als grandiosen Bordeaux. Weit gefehlt jedoch, es ist 2002 Cheval des Andes, ein traumhafter Bordeaux mit erster Reife, nur eben aus Argentinien, was für ein toller Wein.

Im September 2020 bereits hatten wir uns 2017 CHEVAL DES ANDES bis hin zur Magnum und 3 Literflasche gesichert, ein Wein, der in der Folge unglaublich hohe Bewertungen erhielt. 100 Punkte von James Suckling, 97+ Punkte in Parkers WineAdvcoate, 96 Punkte von Jeb Dunnuck, 95 Punkte von Antonio Galloni und 95 Punkte vom Decanter Magazin. All das zu einem Preis von 79,90 Euro, nicht zu vergessen, aus dem Hause Cheval Blanc stammend, küren 2017 CHEVAL DES ANDES zu einem absoluten must-buy.

Ab in die Unger´schen Keller und eine Flasche in den Verkostungsraum:

„In der Nase umgehend nach dem Öffnen animierende Noten dunkler, reifer Früchte, Cassis und schöner Frische. Am Gaumen Schwarzbeere, frischer Tabak, exotische Gewürze und Terroirnoten. Noch immer sehr jugendlich, aber bereits unglaublich zugänglich ist dieser Wein extrem präzise gezeichnet. Keine Überreife, aber perfekte Reife, frische verleihende Säure, weicher und schön viskoser Fluss aufgrund der sandigen, sehr feinen Tannine, beeindruckende Eleganz. Ewig langer Abgang mit Druck, Frucht und Trinkfreude. Dieser Bordeaux aus Argentinien steht erst am Anfang eines langen Lebens, unser persönliches 2002 Cheval des Andes Erlebnis hat dies beeindruckend gezeigt. Ein Muss in jedem Bordeaux Keller.“

100 JAMES SUCKLING:

"This is the greatest Cheval des Andes ever. The integration of fruit, tannins and acidity is fantastic. Full-bodied, tight and solid with beautiful depth and integrity. Extremely long and exciting. Complex and compelling. Available in September 2020."

97+ THE WINEADVOCATE:

"... 2017 saw an early harvest, but they started picking on the 6th of March and continued until the 10th of April, more or less normal dates, early but not so much. The varietal break down this vintage comes to 62% Malbec and 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the wine is slightly riper and higher in alcohol than 2016 (this 2017 is 14.2% alcohol). The different plots fermented separately with selected yeasts, and the élevage lasted for 15 months and was in 50/50 new and second use barrels, 90% of them French and the rest made with wood from Eastern Europe. They used 45% Bordeaux barrels, 45% 400-liter barrels and, for the first time, a 2,500-liter oak foudre. This is clearly the darkest of the trio of vintages I tasted together here—2015, 2016 and 2017—but all three have the elegant and powerful profile, the luxurious and creamy character found in the best Bordeaux wines in the last few years, wines of power with precision, concentration, energy and finesse. This seems to combine the clout of the 2015 and the freshness of the 2016 and feels something in between those two vintages. Their work in the vineyard toward the maturity of the tannins meant the challenge in 2017 was to not let the grapes ripen too fast and too early. The work is different for Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, to get round tannins in Cabernet and get some tension in Malbec, the contrary of the normal tendency of the varieties. 2017 has less ripeness than the 2015 but more density than the 2016. The texture is velvety, precise and harmonious. This year, they introduced a larger foudre for 10% of the wine, with the aim to reach 20%, so that volume is increasing every year. I think this is showing more precision, and in a more challenging year, they managed to keep the quality on par with 2016. ..."

96 JEB DUNNUCK:

"A clear step up, the 2017 Cheval Des Andes brings more richness and texture, while still playing in this complex, elegant, beautifully balanced style. A slightly more Malbec-dominated blend of 62% Malbec and 38% Cabernet Sauvignon (there's no Petit Verdot) aged 15 months in 50% new oak, it offers beautiful currant and cassis fruits as well as tobacco, graphite, stony minerality, and spice aromas and flavors. Medium to full-bodied and wonderfully textured, with remarkable purity and silky tannins, it's another Bordeaux lover’s Mendoza that brings beautiful fruit, purity, and precision. Of the trio of vintages I was able to taste, this is the most complete, balanced, and structured. It's a brilliant wine!"

Wir können Ihnen ebenso Magnumflaschen dieses 100 Punkte Weins anbieten. First come, first served.

2017 Cheval des Andes
Rotwein
95
ANTONIO GALLONI: "The seventeenth vintage of Cheval des Andes, a wine that has undergone a model transformation. I recently tried the 2007, and it’s fascinating to trace the different stages of its evolution, all of which say something about the contemporary history of Argentine wine. To sum up, it started out with a French love of concentration and ripeness and ended up with an equally French love of equilibrium and local terroir. The 2017 is a new beginning in itself. A blend of Malbec with 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, it presents a bold nose of fresh fruit such as sweet and sour cherry with fleshy aromas and a touch of white pepper over a bold, woody backdrop. A fluid wine, slightly taut on the palate with medium structure, a delicate feel and active tannins well integrated into the terse texture, overall it is nuanced and full of flavor. Possesses a balance that respects the concentration of the vintage without ever letting it get out of hand. An Argentine wine made with more than a nod to French expertise."
95
DECANTER: "This is an excellent wine - juicy, with tension and depth, and a confident sense of style and character. Vibrant violet edging, redcurrant and raspberry fruits with tight tannins and a chewy finish. One of the top wines from South America and a great shot of confidence for 'the place' to have it arrive last year where it is now sold 100% after being withdrawn from the LVMH distribution network. Second-to-last vintage with Lorenzo Pasquini before he headed over to Giscours (and Caiarossa), with the 2019 onwards under the care of Gérald Gabillet, formerly with Château Angélus and so maintaining the Bordeaux link."
100
JAMES SUCKLING: "This is the greatest Cheval des Andes ever. The integration of fruit, tannins and acidity is fantastic. Full-bodied, tight and solid with beautiful depth and integrity. Extremely long and exciting. Complex and compelling. Available in September 2020. Better after 2024."
17,5+
JANCIS ROBINSON: "Deep ruby-purple in the glass. Intense and expansive black fruit and spices on the nose, with a hint of black olive and violet. The palate follows, with blueberry, violet and dried herbs. The fruit is sweet but not aggressive, framed by mouth-coating but supremely refined tannins. Focused and elegant as the structure and acidity build through the mid palate, this has impressive restraint. I expect this to become even more impressive after 5 years in bottle, though you could drink it sooner."
96
JEB DUNNUCK: "A clear step up, the 2017 Cheval Des Andes brings more richness and texture, while still playing in this complex, elegant, beautifully balanced style. A slightly more Malbec-dominated blend of 62% Malbec and 38% Cabernet Sauvignon (there's no Petit Verdot) aged 15 months in 50% new oak, it offers beautiful currant and cassis fruits as well as tobacco, graphite, stony minerality, and spice aromas and flavors. Medium to full-bodied and wonderfully textured, with remarkable purity and silky tannins, it's another Bordeaux lover’s Mendoza that brings beautiful fruit, purity, and precision. Of the trio of vintages I was able to taste, this is the most complete, balanced, and structured. It's a brilliant wine!"
97+
THE WINEADVOCATE: "the last few years, a handful of wines from Chile and Argentina—often French owned—have been released in September through the Place de Bordeaux, the network of négociants that sell most of the Bordeaux wines and some of the leading wines from other regions. The 2017 Cheval des Andes is one such wine. 2017 saw an early harvest, but they started picking on the 6th of March and continued until the 10th of April, more or less normal dates, early but not so much. The varietal break down this vintage comes to 62% Malbec and 38% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the wine is slightly riper and higher in alcohol than 2016 (this 2017 is 14.2% alcohol). The different plots fermented separately with selected yeasts, and the élevage lasted for 15 months and was in 50/50 new and second use barrels, 90% of them French and the rest made with wood from Eastern Europe. They used 45% Bordeaux barrels, 45% 400-liter barrels and, for the first time, a 2,500-liter oak foudre. This is clearly the darkest of the trio of vintages I tasted together here—2015, 2016 and 2017—but all three have the elegant and powerful profile, the luxurious and creamy character found in the best Bordeaux wines in the last few years, wines of power with precision, concentration, energy and finesse. This seems to combine the clout of the 2015 and the freshness of the 2016 and feels something in between those two vintages. Their work in the vineyard toward the maturity of the tannins meant the challenge in 2017 was to not let the grapes ripen too fast and too early. The work is different for Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec, to get round tannins in Cabernet and get some tension in Malbec, the contrary of the normal tendency of the varieties. 2017 has less ripeness than the 2015 but more density than the 2016. The texture is velvety, precise and harmonious. This year, they introduced a larger foudre for 10% of the wine, with the aim to reach 20%, so that volume is increasing every year. I think this is showing more precision, and in a more challenging year, they managed to keep the quality on par with 2016. They have changed the label this year, to a cleaner and more elegant label that also reflects the direction the wine is going in. 81,500 bottles produced. It was bottled in January 2019."
93
WINESPECTATOR: "Elegant and well-structured, with intense coffee bean notes to the dried red currant and dark plum flavors. Minerally in the midpalate, with a long finish that features medium-grained tannins and is rich with savory spice and dried green herbal notes. Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2027."
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