Chateau Haut Brion 1995

THE WINE ADVOCATE: "It is fun to go back and forth between the 1995 and 1996, two superb vintages for Haut-Brion. The 1995 seems to have sweeter tannin and a bit more fat and seamlessness when compared to the more structured and muscular 1996. Certainly 1995 was a vintage that the brilliant administrator Jean Delmas handled flawlessly. The result is a deep ruby/purple-colored wine with a tight but promising nose of burning wood embers intermixed with vanilla, spice box, earth, mineral, sweet cherry, black currant, plum-like fruit, medium to full body, a high level of ripe but sweet tannin, and a finish that goes on for a good 40-45 seconds. This wine is just beginning to emerge from a very closed state where it was unyielding and backward. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2035. Last tasted, 11/02."

THE WINE CELLAR INSIDER: "I like how this continues developing. One of the top wines of the vintage, as it is able to overcome the strong tannic overbite found in many wines, here you find a glorious smoke, crushed rock, leaf, cassis and dark red berry nose. The tannins are subdued, the wine shows a refined, elegant character with a smoky, red berry filled finish. This can be enjoyed now with only an hour or so of decanting. Else, wait another 5 years and it will more nuances on the nose and palate."

JANCIS ROBINSON: "Just lovely wine, and the only one that was not dominated by a single variety, being a Cabernet/Merlot blend. Excellent lustrous, nuanced ruby.. Clearly a very fine mature wine. Strong liquorice notes (Haut-Brion 'warm bricks' earthiness?) For a second I wondered if it was a 1998 Hermitage. Very complex. Spread across the palate. My guess is that no one dared guess it was a first growth but we were looking for appreciation in the comments box…"

WINE SPECTATOR: "Sweet tobacco, blackberries and violets on the nose. Subtle. Full-bodied and very tight, with fantastic tannins and a long caressing finish. Wonderful texture. All in reserve still. Give this time.--´95/´96 Bordeaux retrospective. Best after 2010."