Chateau Haut Brion 2004

WINE SPECTATOR: "Wonderful aromas of dried flowers, currant, berries and mineral. Full-bodied, yet reserved and refined. Lovely texture, with a pure silk feel. Seamless and beautiful. Great length. Even better than from barrel. Best after 2012. 12,500 cases made."

JANCIS ROBINSON: "[M 61%, CS 20%, CF 19%] Deep crimson and just slightly less blue than La Mission. More aromatic lift than La Mission but lots of rigour. Strict framework, tannins more evident than flesh. A low key wine, but then Haut-Brion is always low key. Dry rather than sweet – so unpushy as to be easy to overlook. Fine dry tannins on the finish. A bit denser than La Mission."

THE WINE ADVOCATE: "It has been a few years since I last tasted the 2004 Haut-Brion. Now at 12 years of age, it retains its deep color. The bouquet is "pleasant" if not as complex as the 2004 Latour, yet it´s possibly just biding its time as it gradually opens with black fruit, black olive, even a touch of mint that might dupe you into thinking Pauillac. The palate is medium-bodied and very harmonious, almost caressing thanks to the Merlot lending that velvety texture. The second half changes tack, the Cabernet nudging the Merlot off the stage and delivering a more structured, possibly foursquare finish that is linear and correct. It is an excellent wine for the vintage although it will always be overshadowed by the 2005 inter alia. Maybe more personality just needs to develop? Tasted September 2016." Drink: 2020 - 2040 - Neal Martin.